Emulsifiers

An emulsifier is a key functional ingredient that allows oil and water to blend into a stable, uniform product—something they won’t do on their own.
In cosmetic formulations, emulsifiers:
  • Bind oil and water together, preventing separation over time
  • Create texture and viscosity, forming creams, lotions, and milks
  • Improve product stability, consistency, and shelf life
  • Help deliver oils and actives evenly across the skin or hair
Without an emulsifier, products like lotions and creams would quickly split. The choice of emulsifier also influences how a product feels—light and fast-absorbing or rich and conditioning—making it essential for both performance and sensory appeal.
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Polysorbate 20

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Price range: $5.65 through $11.31

Polysorbate 20 — Summary

Polysorbate 20 is a nonionic surfactant and emulsifier derived from sorbitol and fatty acids, typically sourced from renewable vegetable oils such as coconut or palm. It is produced through controlled ethoxylation of sorbitan esters, resulting in a water-soluble, mild, and effective solubilizing agent.

In cosmetics and skincare, Polysorbate 20 is used primarily as a solubilizer and emulsifier. It helps disperse essential oils, fragrances, and other lipophilic actives in water-based formulations while stabilizing emulsions and enhancing clarity. It is commonly found in creams, lotions, serums, tonics, and rinse-off products, supporting smooth texture, uniform appearance, and product stability.

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Sodium Lauryl Sulfate 35%

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Price range: $3.32 through $6.63

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate 35% — Summary

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate 35% is an anionic surfactant derived from lauryl alcohol, typically sourced from coconut or palm kernel oil, and converted into a water-soluble cleansing agent through sulfation and neutralization. It is supplied as a 35% active aqueous solution and is valued for its high detergency and foaming performance.

In cosmetics and skincare, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate 35% is used primarily as a cleansing and foaming agent in rinse-off products such as shampoos, body washes, facial cleansers, hand soaps, and toothpastes. It effectively removes oils, dirt, and impurities while contributing rich, fast-forming foam. Due to its strong cleansing action, it is most often formulated alongside milder surfactants to improve skin feel and reduce irritation, making it suitable for conventional and performance-driven cleansing systems.

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Emulsifiers – Technical & Clean Standards Overview

Emulsifiers are functional cosmetic ingredients that allow oil and water to blend into a stable, uniform product. Because oil and water naturally separate, emulsifiers are essential for creating creams, lotions, serums, and milks with consistent texture and performance.

Technical Function

Emulsifiers work by positioning themselves at the oil–water interface, reducing surface tension and forming a stable system that prevents separation over time. Nonionic emulsifiers are commonly used in clean beauty formulations due to their pH stability, mildness, and broad compatibility.

Role in Cosmetic Formulations

Emulsifiers are used to:

  • Create and maintain stable emulsions

  • Improve texture, spreadability, and sensory feel

  • Support even distribution of oils and active ingredients

  • Enable scalable and reproducible manufacturing

They are essential in lotions, creams, serums, sunscreens, conditioners, and cleansing creams.

Typical Use Levels

Use levels vary by emulsifier type and formulation goals:

  • 1–3% for lightweight emulsions

  • 3–8% for standard creams and lotions

  • 8–12% for rich or highly structured emulsions

Emulsifiers are often combined with co-emulsifiers or structuring agents to fine-tune stability and skin feel.

Clean Standards & Safety Profile

  • Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR): Common cosmetic emulsifiers are considered safe as used

  • Environmental Working Group (EWG): Many plant-derived and nonionic emulsifiers rate low hazard (Score 1–2)

  • PEG-Free Options: Widely available

  • Biodegradable: Many emulsifiers are biodegradable and environmentally compatible

  • Skin Compatibility: Frequently used in sensitive-skin formulations

Retailer Clean Compatibility

Emulsifiers are broadly accepted under major retailer clean standards when they:

  • Serve a clear functional purpose

  • Are plant-derived or biodegradable, when possible

  • Avoid restricted ethoxylated or petroleum-based chemistries

  • Support formulation stability and product safety