Polysorbate 20

Polysorbate 20 — Technical & Clean Standards Overview

Polysorbate 20 is a nonionic surfactant and emulsifier derived from sorbitol and lauric acid, typically sourced from renewable vegetable oils such as coconut or palm. It belongs to the polysorbate family of ethoxylated surfactants and is produced through controlled ethoxylation of sorbitan esters, resulting in a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) suitable for stabilizing oil-in-water emulsions. Polysorbate 20 is widely used in cosmetic, personal care, and pharmaceutical formulations due to its excellent solubilizing and emulsifying properties.

In formulations, Polysorbate 20 functions primarily as a solubilizer for essential oils, fragrances, and lipophilic actives in aqueous systems, as well as a mild emulsifier in creams, lotions, and serums. It enhances clarity, stabilizes dispersed oil phases, and helps maintain uniform texture. Its water-soluble nature and low viscosity contribute to easy handling and smooth incorporation in both rinse-off and leave-on products.

From a Clean Standards and safety profile perspective, Polysorbate 20 has a long history of safe cosmetic use and is generally considered non-irritating and non-sensitizing at typical usage levels. While it is an ethoxylated ingredient, it is biodegradable and widely accepted in formulations adhering to transparency-focused or “green” cosmetic principles when sourced responsibly and used appropriately.

Ingredient Identification

• INCI Name: Polysorbate 20

• CAS Number: 9005-64-5

Physical & Technical Properties

• Appearance: Pale yellow to amber viscous liquid

• HLB: Approximately 16.7 (highly hydrophilic)

• Solubility: Completely soluble in water; dispersible in oils

• Functional Role: Nonionic emulsifier, solubilizer, stabilizer

Typical Usage Levels (Skincare & Personal Care)

• Lotions & Creams: 0.5–2% (for solubilizing fragrance or oils)

• Serums & Tonics: 0.1–1% (for oil-in-water clarity)

• Rinse-off Products: 0.5–3% (enhances dispersion and foam stability)

Actual usage depends on oil load, HLB of the system, and solubilization requirements.

Formulation Compatibility & Common Combinations

Polysorbate 20 is commonly formulated with:

• Essential oils and fragrance oils for solubilization in water

• Light oils or esters to stabilize emulsions

• Glycerin, propylene glycol, or other humectants for combined clarity and texture

• Mild co-emulsifiers (e.g., cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate) to improve emulsion stability

Polysorbate 20 is generally added to the aqueous phase, with gentle heating if needed to fully incorporate oils and actives. Proper HLB matching is recommended to ensure stable and clear formulations.

Regulatory & Safety Notes

• Regulatory Status: Globally accepted in cosmetic applications

• California Proposition 65: Not listed

• EWG Context: Typically rated low hazard (1–2) for cosmetic use

• Irritation & Sensitization: Low; generally non-irritating at normal use levels

• Clean Beauty Compatibility: Acceptable in formulations mindful of ethoxylation, biodegradable, and responsibly sourced