Emollient Oils

Emollient Oils – Technical & Clean Standards Overview

Emollient oils are lipid-based cosmetic ingredients used to soften, smooth, and condition the skin and hair. They help improve skin feel by filling in the surface of the skin, supporting barrier function, and reducing moisture loss. Emollient oils form a key part of the oil phase in cosmetic formulations and strongly influence texture and sensory performance.

Technical Properties

• INCI Names: Vary by oil (e.g., Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride)

• Physical Form: Liquid or semi-solid oils

• Solubility: Oil-soluble; insoluble in water

• Function: Emolliency, conditioning, and sensory modification

Emollient oils may be naturally occurring plant oils or cosmetically refined esters selected for stability and consistency.

Functional Role in Cosmetics

Emollient oils are used to:

• Condition and soften skin and hair

• Support the skin barrier and reduce transepidermal water loss

• Improve spreadability and slip

• Shape product texture, from lightweight to rich

• Carry oil-soluble actives, fragrances, and antioxidants

They are essential in lotions, creams, serums, balms, body oils, conditioners, and masks.

Typical Use Levels

Use levels vary by product type and desired sensory outcome:

• 1–5% in lightweight lotions and serums

• 5–15% in standard creams and conditioners

• 15–30%+ in balms, body butters, and intensive treatments

Blending multiple emollient oils is common to balance absorption, stability, and skin feel.

Clean Standards & Safety Profile

• Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR): Most cosmetic emollient oils are reviewed and considered safe as used

• Environmental Working Group (EWG): Many plant-derived oils rate Low Hazard (Score 1–2)

• GRAS Status: Some oils are GRAS for food use; GRAS does not apply to cosmetic safety

• Skin Compatibility: Generally well tolerated; refinement level and fatty acid profile influence suitability

Retailer Clean Compatibility

Emollient oils are widely accepted under major retailer clean standards because they:

• Are often plant-derived, renewable, and biodegradable

• Have a long history of cosmetic use

• Serve a clear functional necessity

• Support silicone-free and clean-label formulations

• Are available in organic, non-GMO, and sustainably sourced options